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THE RIVIERA NAYARIT

16 delightfully distinctive villages along 192 miles of the Riviera Nayarit coastline of Mexico are paradise.

By Irene Middleman Thomas

ART-edit1The Mexican morning is perfect warm and fresh. I smell tortillas browning, coffee brewing, jasmine blooming. A cacophony of cock-a-doodling mixes with the trilling of warblers, and the fluorescent purple, orange and pink bougainvillea drape like canopies over me. Strolling on through the early light on the shiny cobblestone streets, I find myself smiling at lazy dogs enjoying the sunlight.

In La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, one of 16 delightfully distinctive villages along 192 miles of the Riviera Nayarit coastline, on a dusty corner, I see an intriguing handmade sign beckoning me: “El Jardín del Pulpo” (The Octopus’ Garden). I enter and find a hidden treasure: an organic coffeehouse, restaurant, artisan gallery and live music venue–all in a tropical atrium and filled with a multicultural mix of happy people. Today’s treat is a Flamenco-style trio, playing Spanish guitar to a jazzed-up version of “Bésame Mucho.” There’s always something yet undiscovered around every corner in the Riviera Nayarit.

Each village has its own personality, its own habitués, its own ambiance. All join together in this spectacularly beautiful, friendly region, offering tourists a sublime, like-nowhere-else variety of experiences, gastronomy, recreation, nature and culture. You’ll be mesmerized by the fascinating Huichol culture—a reclusive people, wearing heavily embroidered white costumes, who maintain their language, traditions and intricate artisan work. No wonder so many expats from the U.S. and Canada, and even from farther shores, have chosen to settle here—more than anywhere else in Mexico.

Best of all, getting to the Riviera Nayarit is easy. Its border is just 10 minutes north by car from the Puerto Vallarta airport.

Foodies and gourmets find an extraordinary array of acclaimed, award-winning restaurants, talented, innovative chefs, and unique culinary offerings found only in Nayarit. Don’t leave without trying “aguachile de camarones” (fresh shrimp cooked in lime and chile), pescado sarandeado (grilled, garlic and chile-seasoned fish filets), or a chilled Cielo Rojo (spicy Clamato tomato juice mixed with lager beer and lime). The number one state for shrimp, Nayarit is a seafood lover’s haven.

If you hanker for a no-decision, total-relaxation week, some 15 or so all-inclusives, ranging from three to five stars, invite you to do NOTHING at all on their lavish premises. But there’s so much to explore!

Read on to learn about five of our favorite villages (all within 20 minutes to two hours from the airport):

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La Cruz de Huanacaxtle:

This little fishing village, just 20 minutes from the airport, offers quaint, old-fashioned authenticity, despite being home to a spanking new 351-slip marina, the largest in Latin America, with yachts up to 400 feet anchored there. “La Cruz,” as locals refer to it, has its own expat community and a surprising number of superb restaurants that draw foodies from near and far, such as Frascati’s, Black Forest and El Jardín del Pulpo.

Punta de Mita:

This community, at the north tip of Banderas Bay, some 45 minutes from the airport, caters to those who can afford the St. Regis and the Four Seasons, with their gated resort and residential community, two 18-hole Jack Nicklaus championship golf courses, and luxurious spas. The rest of us can also enjoy its beautiful beaches, delightful shops and excellent restaurants, such as Mariscos Tino’s, where I gorged on tacos de jaiba (crab tacos), coconut shrimp, bacon-wrapped shrimp, and had yet another Cielo Rojo.

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San Francisco (nicknamed San Pancho):

San Pancho exudes a whole different attitude from that of nearby Sayulita. The town comes alive during polo season between November and May at its famous Polo Club. San Pancho, about an hour from the airport, is quiet, tasteful and ecologically minded. The Entre Amigos community center, founded by a California woman, is a real pleasure. It provides free courses in music, art, language, computers, etc., and involves the local Mexican community as well as the expats and tourists. San Pancho has a lovely beach, a small beachside plaza, several small hotels, B&Bs and charming restaurants.

San Blas:

About 2½ hours north of Puerto Vallarta’s airport, San Blas is a haven for birders, naturalists, silky-soft golden sand beach lovers (over 20 miles of pristine coastline), surfers and surprisingly, gourmets. San Blas is a taste of Mexico-the-way-it-used-to-be. The federally-protected La Tovara National Park here is one of the most important winter habitats for birds in the Pacific, home to 80 percent of the Pacific migratory shore bird population. Happy foodies enjoy Cordon Bleu-inspired cuisine like jicama and avocado tartare or fresh lychee sorbet at internationally-acclaimed, Chef Betty Vasquez’ El Delfin restaurant in the delightful Garza Canela Hotel.

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Sayulita:

The epitome of surfer-chic, Sayulita just might be the most diverse town ever, ranging from long dreadlocked Rastas, to stand up paddleboarders, to fixed-income single seniors seeking new lives, to affluent art collectors, and yoga/spa enthusiasts. Sayulita has a true falafel/Middle Eastern café, vegan bistros and a famous ChocoBanana stand, along with fine dining at the beachfront Don Pedro’s (tapenade served with bread is incredible!), or the artisan bakery and coffeehouse of Panino’s. Visit the exquisite Galería Tanara Huichol Free Trade store that offers authentic Huichol jewelry, textiles and decorative art. The town is an hour from the airport.

If You Go:

CLIMATE

May 15 to November 30 is the rainy season, but usually it rains about
7p.m. or at night, with sunlit days. Temperatures and humidity are highest during this period, but the ocean temperature is refreshing.

WHERE TO STAY

San Blas
Garza Canela
garzacanela.com

Sayulita
Hotel Playa Escondida
playa-escondida.com

San Pancho
Cielo Rojo
hotelcielorojo.com

La Cruz
Villa Bella Bed and Breakast
villabella-lacruz.com

Punta Mita
Four Seasons
fourseasons.com/puntamita

TRAVEL

Direct flights to Puerto Vallarta from San Diego are about three hours and are offered on American, Alaska and Aeromexico. Travel from the airport to each town can be arranged by private taxi, shuttle service, public bus or by rental car.

DON’T MISSES

Entre Amigos Center
entreamigos.org.mx

Galería Tanara:
thehuicholcenter.org

El Jardín del Pulpo
(The Octopus’ Garden)
hikuri.com

Riviera Nayarit
rivieranayarit.com